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Watch Buying Guide

Buying a watch is part science, part romance. Here's the science part — the romance happens when you try one on.

Movements: automatic, manual, or quartz

The movement is the engine of the watch. An automatic (self-winding) mechanical movement is powered by the motion of your wrist — no battery, just centuries of watchmaking craft. A manual-wind movement needs winding by hand every day or two, a ritual many collectors love. A quartz movement runs on a battery, keeps superb time, and asks almost nothing of you.

Which is right? If you love engineering and tradition, go mechanical — Omega, Breitling, and Oris build some of the finest mechanical movements made. If you want grab-and-go precision, quartz is honest and excellent. Neither is 'better'; they answer different desires.

Water resistance, translated

Water-resistance ratings are tested in still, controlled conditions — real life adds movement and pressure. Here's what the numbers actually mean:

  • 30m — splash resistant. Fine for rain, not the shower
  • 50m — hand washing and shallow splashes
  • 100m — swimming and snorkeling
  • 300m+ — serious diving; the territory of dive watches like the Seamaster
  • Any watch — have seals checked before a swim if it hasn't been serviced in a while

Size and fit

Case sizes run from about 28mm to 44mm and beyond, but your wrist cares more about how the watch wears than the number. Lug-to-lug length (how far the case spans across your wrist) matters more than diameter — a watch whose lugs overhang your wrist will always feel awkward. This is why trying on matters; we'll help you find the size that disappears on your wrist.

Bracelet or strap? A metal bracelet is durable and versatile. Leather dresses a watch up but doesn't love water. Rubber and NATO straps are sporty, washable, and cheap to swap — many collectors keep several.

Complications worth knowing

'Complications' are functions beyond hours and minutes. The classics: a date window, a chronograph (stopwatch), a GMT (second time zone — a traveler's best friend), and a dive bezel. Choose the ones you'll actually use; a chronograph you never start is handsome nonetheless.

Care and service

A fine mechanical watch should be serviced every five to ten years — cleaned, lubricated, and regulated. Between services, keep it away from strong magnets (speakers, some phone cases) and wind quartz batteries out of rotation. All watch purchases happen at our Uptown showroom — call (505) 883-8078 to book time with us, and bring your questions.